Milan Fashion Week Pt2 – Marco de Vincenzo/ Roberto Cavalli/ DSquared2/ Vivetta/ D&G
Marco de Vincenzo
DESPITE elaborate reading when it came to his show notes, the takeaway from Marco de Vincenzo’s show this afternoon was the actual clothes on the catwalk, their texture and grace as opposed to any other conceptual-ness – though Japan did become a more solid reference point, it transpired. Since making his debut in Milan in 2009, De Vincenzo has been heralded as one of Italy’s most exciting new talents. Today he gave us the fluffy stuff: feathers in stripes, as capes, as skirts, as sandals – there simply wasn’t a surface for it to elegantly waft onto. It was zen in colour and considered in ornamentation – no end of paradise prettiness to find here.
THE instalment of a new creative director can go one of two ways – it’s either about revolution (as at Gucci) or evolution: that’s what Peter Dundas did at Roberto Cavalli today as he finally made his debut after it was announced back in March this year.
After many rumours, the appointment came as little surprise – Dundas’ collection today, too, was no surprises. All the Cavalli boxes were ticked for sass appeal, twinkle, studs, short skirts, tight shapes, a billowing thigh-revealing skirt (ball skirts here), lean-in-length dresses that came lean in fabric too, and the wild animal print we so associate with the brand.
It was what we expected him to do, bring with him that glamour he had formerly brought to Emilio Pucci and instal it once more here. Notes of newness, however, did come in the use of denim – tie-dyed and distressed on biker jackets and gilets – and an overall sportiness that saw the introduction of sweatshirts, teamed with ball skirts. It had a youthfulness.
It was a predictable and well-handled transition – let’s not forget this isn’t one of Italy’s heritage houses (again like Gucci) and it already has a loyal following and customer base and there’s no need to alienate that, it’s about keeping them on board.
And it was a homecoming for Dundas, having already worked at the Cavalli label from 2002 to 2005.
“BONDI bitches,” screeched Dean and Dan Caten backstage at their DSquared show this evening. It was appropriate that they showed on a Saturday night because this collection was all about the party – the beach party – and dressing it up to the max. It takes a certain sort of woman, certainly, to be able to pull off this summer’s scuba-tight, bejewelled, neon, billowing-skirt (to represent the waves), Elizabethan ruffle-neck body suits – but they’re out there. The twins had started to learn to surf themselves over the summer, so took that as their starting point, added more than one or two parties into the mix, and rode the waves to this. Colourful, it was – fuzzy bombers added to swimsuit cut-out gowns of primary shades, bling then layered on and on to summer Christmas tree effect, a disco erupting on dresses and skirts beneath. You might not be a fan, not everyone will be. Tell you who is? Michelle Rodriguez, who excitedly greeted the boys and posed for snaps with them backstage.
Dolce & Gabbana
IN what turned out to be quite the meta Dolce & Gabbana show this afternoon, the selfie and the rise of social media reigned supreme.
Pre-show we were warned that the models would be taking selfies with us – this of course is while we were taking snaps of them and an Italian fruit stall set-up at the entrance of the catwalk made for Insta-perfection. They were taking pictures, we were taking pictures; you were seeing the pictures that we might be in, you were seeing the pictures they might be in. It was a social media love in. Smile; say cheese; pull out that pout.
All of which could mean that amongst all the fumbling fingers for the fastest and best photos the clothes got lost. But in all their colourful and elaborately embroidered glory, they really couldn’t. Though it’s highly likely the percentage of time spent looking at one’s phone superseded that of the catwalk. But then that’s what those selfies – ours, theirs – are for.
“Italia is Love”, the show was called – and it was a world tour of references: Peruvian pom-poms, chinoiserie dresses, riviera style, Italian tradition – all transposed the Dolce & Gabbana way. So: lace, opulent embroidery and embellishment, those Fifties sundress silhouettes, or alternatively those hour-glass styles or tunics with trumpet sleeves. All the Dolce & Gabbana DNA was there as it always is – it was just about another way in showing it off: the social network.
I loved all of these collections!!! 😀 D&G are my fav from Milan!
Next its Paris ..