Thom Browne SS15

by ChinaBambi

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A couple of months ago Thom Browne wowed us with the SS15 Menswear collection in Paris Fashion Week. Surreal Thunderbird type eeriness emerged on the runway in a collection of suits. Totally blown away!

Thom Browne SS15 Mens

Initial reaction:

A little like drifting into a fever dream after a night spent in front of the TV: a surreal concoction of Thunderbirds (the hats and uniform elements), 70s cult horror Alice, Sweet Alice (the plastic masks), and a Gunther von Hagens autopsy special (the inflated muscles bursting from garments).

Give them a show:

Thom Browne is famed for his avant-garde, often utterly bizarre catwalk shows, from the theatrical staging of an Amish barn raising to – somewhat controversially – figuring audience members as inpatients at a mental health institution. SS15 proved no exception, as Browne’s own audience of men in grey suits and masks sat like neat students, watching the procession of looks pass by. Models resembled militaristic marionettes, in uniforms that, in a cartoonish parody of gender, exaggerated the proportions of the body – a Browne signature. The shoulders, muscles and groin all became larger than life, and a few models were even given Madonna-worthy cone breasts.

How it was worn:

“I surround each collection with humour or irony,” Browne told Dazed in an interview last year. “I want to make sure that it’s not too serious and that there is some element that throws it off.” This season, it was the three dimensional butterfly and flower appliques, which were grouped on shoulders and crotches, and decorated socks. The fabric choice also lightened the tone, with inflated six packs presented in childlike baby pink seersucker, patterned with flowers.

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Photography Marie-Amélie Tondu

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Yesterday Thom Browne didn’t disappoint again with the second part to his SS15 collection at New York Fashion Week. A Tim Burton-esq fairytale style story… LOVE!!!

Thom Browne SS15 NYFW

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The Virgin Suicides by Tim Burton. The collection was framed by a narrated tale of six sisters who live and dress together, taking pleasure in the rules of dress, a fairy tale about the invented logic of personal presentation. For example: “Mondays they start the week in tailoring.” By the weekend, they’re naked. And as charming as this story was, the real narrative depth comes through the clothes themselves (isn’t that how it should be), which were embedded with intricacies of thread and collaged silk. Outrageous fascinators further illustrated the six-model sections (dresses for Thursday, for example). There’s something eerie about these collections – even this one set in a garden with a whimsical tale of sorority, with no sisterly murders or menacing – with models emerging, teetering, truly as vessels for performative clothes.

Surprise guest:

The show’s story was written by Thom Browne and narrated by Diane Keaton.

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Statue garden:

The set was a garden lined in roses (red, white and blue rows – could you guess?), full of models painted like weathered stone, some on stilts that made their seersucker lines look like they extended the height of the room. In the centre, one model sat with butterfly wings and a mask. They all remained statue still as the waves of sisters walked in the grassy pathway around them.

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Photography Lea Colombo

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WISH I WAS THERE!

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